So much rock, so little time…

Thursday afternoon, I’ll be on my way to Las Vegas. No, not to gamble but to rock climb at Red Rocks. My support team (chuckle) will consist of Hardman “Kevin”, “Saladboy” Dandrijeski, and Thelonius Thibodeaux. We are planning on 3 1/2 days of hard climbing on perfect desert sandstone under blue skies and with ultimate weather conditions.

I’ve been spending more time than usual reading the guidebook and exchanging emails about which routes to climb, and it’s becoming increasingly clear that there is enough rock for a lifetime of climbing at Red Rocks, even for those of us not climbing 5.11 and harder. Some of the routes we’re eyeing are: Black Orpheus 5.10a, The Nightcrawler 5.10c, Dream of Wild Turkey 5.10a…. and then there is always Epinephrine which – this time around – will have to wait till a later date. This early in the year there’s just too little daylight to attempt that route if you don’t want to bivy.

I will let Kevin be the crux man on these routes. Definitely at 5.10c. I feel stronger this year than when we climbed there in May ’07. But I have done virtually no 5.10 trad leading. I think I could probably do it if I’m feeling strong. So maybe one of the shorter cruxes on DOWT could be mine !? It would most of all be a head test, and those always make for the best climbing days!

The real dilemma is that Kevin’s climbed much of the moderate mega classics, and is not into climbing easy routes. That way I don’t get to do much pleasure climbing. The flipside of this is that I get to follow on some hard stuff – pitches that I wouldn’t lead myself. Maybe some other time I need to make it to Red Rocks with a 5.6 climber for a weekend of easy pitch bagging. But right now, I’m psyched to go climbing with these guys, and have a blast.


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