The Gear Game

moses1While you’re on climbing hiatus, nothings beats playing the gear game. I think I have blogged before about shaving weight of the climbing rack by replacing old gear with lighter new stuff. Well, I’ve done it again. While my friend Kevin was lucky enough to have his entire climbing rack, shoes, backpack etc stolen a while back, I had to muster some real good excuses to replace fully functional gear.

The obvious choice for buying new, lighter gear, appeared to be the new Black Diamond C4 Camalots. I’ve climbed with them before, and they are really sweet. They have a super smooth action and feel noticeably lighter than the older ones. But when I did the math of weight (OLD) minus weight (NEW), I came out with only 230 grams at a cost of $490 dollars. Over $2 per gram.

Instead I looked at my biners. I’ve always had mostly really light wiregates, what Omega Pacific calls the Alpine draw, a Doval (37g) and a JC Wiregate (41g) on a 24 in. Yates runner. I’ve never liked the JC’s. They flip around too much on the runner. And the runners are now getting a bit fuzzy and have a tendency to get stuck on things. So the search was on for a new biner and new runners. I’d been flirting with Camp’s Nano biner, the lightest full strength biner there is – a mere 23g. But those seem to be on backorder everywhere, look almost too small, and are kind of pricy. To make a long story short, I chose the Mammut Moses draw, two Mammut Moses biners (27g ea.) on a 8mm and 24 in Mammut  draw.

Counting just the biners, I reduced weight by: (10*37+10*41)g – 20*27g = 240 grams  at $230. in fact, the savings are going to be much bigger because I can use the Dovals to replace some of the really heavy racking biners on my sling. At <$1/g savings, gear still seems pricey but I’m getting stuff that I like a lot better and it pulls me through to upcoming climbing lull. The Moses biners are incredibly light. They look like toy biners !!!

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